Roots of Sumer · 05 / 12

Lagash

Tell al-Hiba · Dhi Qar

Tell al-Hiba, the site of Lagash. Photo: David Stanley, licence CC BY 2.0, source.

Why it matters

Lagash matters because it was one of the largest Sumerian cities and the political and economic centre of a state that included Girsu and Nina. Its rulers included Eannatum, of the Stele of the Vultures, and Urukagina, whose texts contain the word amagi, considered the oldest known word for freedom. Its long dispute with Umma over the Gu-Edin land is one of the oldest border conflicts recorded in writing. Since 2019 a team from the Universities of Pennsylvania and Cambridge has worked there with Iraqi archaeologists, and in 2022 it found the remains of a public eatery about five thousand years old, showing the lives of ordinary people, not only kings.

One of the largest Sumerian cities by area, it was the political and economic centre of the state of Lagash, which also included Girsu and Nina.

Since 2019 a joint team from the Universities of Pennsylvania and Cambridge has worked here with Iraqi archaeologists, and recent surveys show it was a densely populated city with several economic centres.

Notable factIn 2022 the team uncovered the remains of a public eatery about five thousand years old, with benches, ovens and a kind of clay 'fridge' for keeping food.

Visitor guide

43km from Nasiriyah

22km from Shatra

Approximate straight-line distance; the road is longer.

Best time: Roughly November to March. Summers in the south are extremely hot, often above 45°C, so avoid midday visits in summer.

Practical tips:

Arrange your visit in advance with the Dhi Qar Antiquities Inspectorate; archaeological sites are protected and guarded.
Bring plenty of water, a hat and sun protection; most sites have no shade or services.
Do not walk on exposed walls or pick up any sherd or stone; Iraq's Antiquities and Heritage Law No. 55 of 2002 forbids it.

Getting there

East of Shatra, near the edge of the marshes. There are no facilities on site; visits are arranged with the Dhi Qar Antiquities Inspectorate.

Photos of the site

The Stele of the Vultures from Lagash, showing Eannatum's victory over Umma — The Stele of the Vultures, victory of Eannatum of Lagash over Umma, Louvre Museum (نحو 2450 ق.م). Photo: Kikuyu3 and contributors (composite), licence CC BY-SA 4.0, source.

Collapsed mudbrick walls at Tell al-Hiba (Lagash), covered in salt from the soil — The ruins of Lagash (Tell al-Hiba) in Dhi Qar Governorate. Photo: David Stanley from Nanaimo, Canada, licence CC BY 2.0, source.

A clay foundation nail bearing the name of Gudea — Foundation nail inscribed with the name of Gudea, ruler of Lagash (نحو 2140 ق.م). Photo: Unknown author, licence CC0, source.

A clay tablet lamenting the destruction of Lagash, from the time of Urukagina — Tablet of the 'Lamentation over the Ruin of Lagash', from the reign of Urukagina (نحو 2350 ق.م). Photo: Gary Todd, licence CC0, source.

Stone statue of Entemena, ruler of Lagash — Statue of Entemena, ruler of Lagash, found at Ur, Iraq Museum (نحو 2400 ق.م). Photo: Osama Shukir Muhammed Amin FRCP(Glasg), licence CC BY-SA 4.0, source.

Sources

Information last reviewed: November 2026. Dates are approximate.